Friday, January 20, 2006

Xi'an, China - Warrior Country

Surrounded by a fairly impresive wall, Xi'an is a surprisingly big and modern city with plenty of money, reflected in the high rise glass buildings and the high end international fashion brands that have set up shop on the main thoroughfare and in some of the many new shopping malls. The city centre is spotless, bustling and very westernised with Pizza Huts and KFCs on every other corner.

We arrived in Xi'an on an overnight train from Datong, which took about 17 hours. This is quite an interesting journey with some nice scenery along the way, just make sure you get a sleeper cabin where you can actually get some form of sleep. We met some people who decided it would be a great idea to save a measly few bucks and settle for a carriage seat. They spent the whole time squashed into their seats with no air conditioning with people sitting on the floor around them and even sitting on top of them and their bags!! So unless you like to travel uncomfortably in order to save less than it would cost to buy yourself a crappy breakfast then by all means get a sleeper cabin!! You'll thank me.

Outside the station you will be greeted by shouting taxi drivers and bus drivers all eager to take you wherever you need to go. They know all the hotels and hostels so you should have no trouble. Also outside the train station (probably sheltering out of the sun under the massive arches of the City Wall) are hundreds of country folka and farmers who have come to Xi'an in the hope of a better life or to try get a train to another big city to earn a living. Since it is a major hub for the region there are trains to and from every major town and city in China, as well as an international airport about 17 miles outside the city that caters for the streams of tourists here to see the historical sights and the many business men coming to take advantage of the economic boom.

If you're guide book is more than a couple of years old you can pretty much gaurantee that it will be hardly any use to you in Xi'an. The city is changing so fast that restaurants and hotels that were in our 2 year old guidebook had been replaced by massive sky scrapers and apartment blocks. In fact it was hard to find anything that was mentioned in the guidebook at all, and even harder to find any decent food as it has all been replaced, as I mentioned earlier, by crappy western fast food joints.

Stay Here:
We stayed in the Xi'An City Youth Hostel, a perfectly located old style chinese building just on the inside of the South Wall. In fact the wall is literally outside the door. Its by no means a great hostel, although it does have a decent restaurant serving up fairly good Chinese and western cuisine which is good when you can't find anything else. There are double rooms in an open courtyard as well as dorms sleeping anything from 6 to 12 people. Prices can depend on how busy they are and on how much you can bargain off the price. Generally though, prices in Xi'an are more expensive than say, Beijing for example.

Do This:
No trip to Xi'An would be complete without a trip to see the incredibly impresive 'Terracotta Army', a collection of thousands of 500 year old life size hand sculpted warriors that were discovered only about 30 years ago. They were made to gaurd the tomb of an emperor and are lined up in intimidating formations near his tomb (which is about 1 mile away). The strange thing about them is that here is no historical record of them ever being made, which is all the more compelling when you see them for real. There are so many of them and it must have taken so long to make them that surely someone wrote something down somewhere? Anyway, to get here take one of the lines of public buses just waiting pounce on you outside the train station. They will probably charge you more than they charge the locals to go the same distance but its a lot less than you would pay to go on a tour bus (which can be organised in the hostel if you wish) that'll go to the same place. Make sure you get off at the actual Terracotta Army site and not the fake 'Tomb' abobut a mile or so before it which is a rip off tourist trap. We got caught out ourselves and had to walk all the way to the proper one in the scorching heat.

In the city itself you can walk up on the City Wall, nice at night when the lanterns are all lit. The Drum tower in the centre of town is pretty nice too. If you want to shop this is a great spot with lots of big shopping malls and some bargains to be had in the smaller shops on North side of the drum tower.

Eating:
You'll be hard pressed to find a decent chinese food place on any of the main streets, especially a reasonable one. As mentioned previously, the hostel does fairly decent food. For the fun of it you should eat in Pizaz Hut. We actually had to put our names on a list to get in and come back over an hour later, which is crazy. To see the ques outside and the way they enjoy having the 'Western' experience is an experience in itself. They even try to use knives and forks - an entertaining sight, though I'm sure not as entertaining as us trying to use chopsticks.

Other Stuff:
The CITS Office in Xi'An was by far the worst one we visited in all China. They have no interest in helping you unless you are obviously rich and willing to spend extortionate amounts on the tours they offer to the Terracotta army. They were very ignorant towards us when we asked them anything that didn't relate directly to what they wanted to sell us and had no information to offer us about getting out of Xi'an.

A better option would be to get info from the hostel or from one of the travel agents based across the road from the train station who are much more helpful and have good English.

There are options to go visit panda bears in a sanctuary about 200 miled or so out of Xi'An among a few other touristy things that didn't really interest me or seem worth the time. But for the Warriors alone it was worth thr trip, they really are impressive.

38 Comments:

At Tuesday, February 21, 2006 3:25:00 p.m., Blogger Running Man said...

i have ten days to spend in beijing in april...any suggestions?

 
At Tuesday, February 21, 2006 3:54:00 p.m., Blogger Life O'Reilly said...

hi Paul

I don't have your email address so can't reply to you but if you have 9 days in Beijing you have plenty of time to do lots of things.

Definatley stay in one of the Hutong areas (the one i stayed in is outlined in my blog -click on the 'Beijing = Fantastic' blog link in the side bar of my blog page), by far the best places to experience the culture. Check out some of the tea houses and get a pair of sandals custom made for you in this area too. Go to the Forbidden City, Summer Palace, Tienamen Square, Temple of Heavan (all great sights). Go see at least one acrobatics display and a chinese opera (you won't know what they are saying but you'll enjoy the spectacle). Don't get taxi's - walk or get a rickshaw or tuc tuc. Agree a price before you leave!!

Check out some of the Olympic Games sites like the magnificent Gymnastics dome next to Tienamen Square.

Eat steamed dumplings, wontons and beijing duck pancakes. Drink Tsingtao beer.

Outside Beijing you should make it your mission to go see the Great Wall, really not to be missed especially between Jinsangling and Simatai. ALso, at a stretch, you could go to Datong, which is about an 8 hour train journey away, to see the hanging temples, although you'll have to spend the night in Datong. Details in 'Datong - Coal Country' on the right of my blog page.

You can see more stories from places I visited in China my going to my travelpod. Check out the 'My Travelpod' link on my blog page. There are pictures there too.

Hope this helps. You'll find even walking around the city can be rewarding, especially the area just south of Tienamen square near the Hutongs.

Have a good one!!!

 
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